The waves were big today. Big is good, it keeps you from thinking. Last week it was flat, lot of time to float and wander for both body and mind. When its big, you just do. You ride the waves, you paddle hard, keep charging because they keep coming. No time to think about where to put your hands or when to go for it, just do what feels right. Finally when you have expended everything and no mind tricks will raise your arms once more, you come out to sit on the sand and you think to yourself, "that was alright." And the next day you'll be back, be it big or be it flat.
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