Surfing

Been surfing again, I got on the UCLA surfers mailing list so its motivating me to go surf now. Anyway today I went to sunset, 11 am seems to be the best time go, since there's no traffic so its a straight shot on San Vicente to PCH. Takes about 20 minutes to get there. I think I'm getting this shit. I think my conditioning improved to where I can chase a lot more waves so I caught some good rides today, I'm finally not looking like a man falling out of a building, or a wave. The waves were pretty goodtoday too and even better, I was able to get infront of most of them. Did get tossed a few times. I did have to leave early to go back to work, but it was still great!

>On 2006-10-21,16:47:10 Blaise wrote:

>>Saturday Session was at Topanga. Pretty nice beach, its right next to the Chart House in malibu. The break point is a lot smaller though so it was crowded. We showed up around 6:30 and there were already a ton of people in the water, the Sun wasn't even up yet. On top of that the locals are terrirorial so make sure you don't steal anyone's wave. The waves were good though but a little fast. On my board I had a hard time paddling furiously enough to get infront of the big waves so I got dumped or fell off the top a few times. Got some good rides on the slightly smaller ones, and the ones where I paddled early to gain momentum. I think this beach is good to come to on weekdays where it should be less crowded.


>On 2006-10-25,15:58:42 Blaise wrote:

>>Topanga again on Tuesday. Its noon and its Tuesday yet the beach was crowded. We went in on the right side of the breaks this time, not too many waves on the right side compared to the left. Everybody was crowding the breaks like last time, 10 people chasing the same wave.


>On 2006-10-28,14:42:53 Blaise wrote:

>>Saturday, went to El Porto. Got lost, and there was a freeway closure, but got some directions from a gas station and drove through the airport to get to the beach. Waves were small but big enough for me.