Surf 9

I have a bad habit of pushing my board in front of me. This Wednesday I did it again and a wave caught it and threw it back at me, nailing me on my chin. I almost bit a chunk the size of a small tooth off the side of my tongue. It was practically dangling off, I could feel it flapping inside my mouth. I thought I might have needed stiches, but amazingly, two days later, it almost fully healed. I hope it doesn't leave a cleft, but it looks like the original shape is reforming. I'd have to say, my tongue is a pretty amazing body part. Well anyway, besides the tongue, I had a pretty good time at Santa Monica, my board desperately needs some wax, but I've improved a bit on my timing. Another thing, about the same time I showed up, this dude in a red MR2 also went surfing. Man I don't know where that thing fit in his car, he didn't have a roof rack.